After living in Japan for a year, it was very difficult not to see it constantly when travelling to Seoul. From the food, architecture, and music, strong connections are everywhere. But, confronted by such a similar place, I could also fine-tune my observations and learn exactly what defines Japan, by the subtle (or sometimes very stark) ways in which South Korea was different.
Naturally I cannot proceed without throwing China a bone. Both Korean and Japanese borrowed thousands of Chinese terms to enrich their language, leading to enduring links that careful listeners might observe. Easier to spot are the massive temples and palaces, with their tiered pagodas, overhanging eaves, and lovely incense. And to a bumbling foreigner like me, the difference between gimbap and sushi is only very minute.
Perhaps most interesting is where Japan and Korea resemble each other, but differ from China. Because both the island and the peninsula have retained quite strong shamanic traditions, which favour ritual gates of purification to separate the profane from the spiritual. Cross the gates and you will find a place of music, ritual, purity, and the ever-present meddling of thousands of spirits. But, breaking with my Japanese mould, the Koreans have filled their shrines and palace gardens with caricaturesque totem poles called jangseung, which serve to guard a community from these unruly spirits.
And although both cultures imported heavily from China, where Japan adopted and furthered Buddhism, the Koreans went all in on Confucianism. This means that Japan’s dedication to Zen, such as its awareness of impermanence felt through fleeting cherry blossoms, or a rejection of the superfluous, as symbolised by the sober and simple tea ceremony, are quite absent in Korea. Instead, through a heavy focus on ethics and hierarchy, political scandals are not merely legal but also moral failures, the language has become strictly codified based on seniority and position, and monks remain mountain hermits, unwelcome in the cities.
Korea’s most distinct feature, at least in my perspective, was its amazingly delicious cuisine. Freed from the temperate isolation of the Japanese islands, Korean kitchens do not focus on subtle, fleeting, and soft flavours. Instead, spice is welcomed onto every plate, and each bite packs a punch. Of course it’s easy to love Korean fried chicken, served with a mix of red sauces, but I believe you could blindly point at any menu in Seoul, and be confident you’ll enjoy your meal.
More controversial now, some real hard-hitting investigative journalism. After careful field research, I have discovered a certain aspect where Korea has surpassed and outdone Japan. To make matters worse, I am referencing a field where the latter is usually extremely strong. Stickers and masking tape. Indi adores these types of cute stationery, covering her letters and notes with them. And so I went on a mission, trying to find only the best. I quickly realised my wallet would not be able to keep up, as every set of stickers, every postcard, betrays a level of skill and creativity that is probably unmatched anywhere on earth. Real controversial stuff.
So yeah anyway, I quite liked Korea, although they hide their four ATMs like they’re built from solid gold, and love to build 18-lane roads to make every crossing a kind of Korean-roulette. Next time I should visit North Korea; at which point, I imagine, my habit of casual comparison would be tested rather severely.
